Markets in Istanbul

 

 Istanbul has its designer stores but there's much more to be had in its markets, from back-street haggling pits crammed with clothes-shopping aunties to glittering medieval spice bazaars.

Spice Bazaar

A short walk from the Grand Bazaar, the 17th-century Eminönü Egyptian Spice Bazaar, open seven days a week, is another favourite of the camera-wielding, souvenir-seeking tourist. A bustling gastronomic paradise since 1664, this is the best place to pick up dried fruits and nuts, spices, olives, Turkish delight, oils and essences of the finest order. Bronze curios glint in the sun, torpedo-sized dates are stacked to the rafters, and the decadent scent of freshly ground Mehmet Efendi coffee merges with the aroma of fresh fish, with surprisingly non-toxic consequences. Marriage proposals should only be entertained if they involve free Turkish delight. 

• Sururi, Fatih

Çarşamba

A sprawling weekly affair in an ultra-conservative area, the enormous Fatih Çarşamba (Wednesday) market – flogging fruit and veg, eggs and cured meats, outrageous stilettos, gadgets, branded clothing and, well, everything at rock-bottom prices – is not a place for the faint-hearted. Disorganised and wholly unruly, relentless sellers on table-tops wade among overflowing wares, bellowing prices and bagging goods at the slightest sign of interest. Favoured by locals, tourists are refreshingly absent, so keep the cameras under wraps, adopt a steely visage and don't hold back from joining swarms of angry mothers raking through mountains of clothing, as these will, no matter how unlikely it seems, produce the occasional gem. Bags and loved ones should be kept close at all times. 

• Kirmasti, Fatih

Inebolu

A genuine Istanbul "foodie" can be defined by their affinity with the Inebolu Sunday market, an Anatolian culinary carnival located in the downtown grime of Beyoğlu's Kasimpaşa district. Tobacco-chewing sellers from the Inebolu Black Sea region of Turkey set off in their lorries on Saturday night to arrive in Istanbul at the crack of dawn, laden with the finest organic produce; chunky slabs of corn bread, bushels of fragrant herbs, thick pastes and purees, crates of eggs, bright flowers, splitting sacks of grain, walnuts and hazelnuts and bins of glistening olives. With beady-eyed punters beginning their forage as early as 6am, shalwar-clad damsels and their moustached counterparts police topsy-turvy stalls in a chorus of discordant bellows. A trip to Anatolia and back again – and all before breakfast. Shuts up shop early, at 4pm.

Yeşilköy

Living up to its tranquil title, Yeşilköy (green village) market is the perfect stop-off for those in search of a less frantic market experience. Abundant in greenery, the vast Wednesday weekly has a reputation for high-quality products (including excellent fake silk scarves) and even provides toilet facilities. Two thousand stalls (organised into designated areas), vibrant floral displays and scattered tea cafes combine to create something unheard of in Turkey – a relaxing market browse. Gems include makeup from Mac to Maybelline, available at up to 50% discount, and the best fake Louis Vuitton in the city.
• Yeşilköy Halkali Caddesi, Bakirköy

Sahaflar

 

One thing you will not find in abundance at Turkish street markets is books. But the old booksellers' market in Beyazit is a haven of old volumes. A leafy city oasis located between the Grand Bazaar and Beyazit Mosque, under a canopy of chestnut and acacia trees, the 15th-century market and its associated tea garden was a hot spot for prominent poets, academics and authors in the mid-20th century, and now hosts 23 bookstores daily. Stationery, calligraphy materials, textbooks, novels and foreign and holy literature, Sahaflar has it all. Huddles of elderly, tobacco-chewing gents peddle watches, badges, old coins and trinkets, although it's never entirely clear who is working and who is just hanging around for a chat.
• Çadircilar Caddesi, Beyazit

All markets open at dawn and close at dusk, unless otherwise stated